A Dreamy Escape to French Polynesia: Discovering the Magic of Moorea
When I realized that French Polynesia was just an 8-hour direct flight from LAX, I knew I had to get on a plane and explore this amazing place. It felt like the perfect, convenient getaway - not too far and not too fussy. Though I aimed for a somewhat budget-friendly approach, the costs of rental cars and dining out did add up. However, it wasn’t exorbitant, making it accessible beyond the elite few who frequent its sister island, Bora Bora.
The hotel cat on our bed!
We stayed at Fenua Mata’i’oa, a true hidden gem! As someone who isn't a big fan of large resorts, this tiny five-room hotel nestled amidst lush gardens with a tranquil aqua lagoon backdrop was a dream come true. The hotel might lack some amenities (no restaurant and a few quirks you just have to get used to), but it makes up for it with charm, unforgettable memories, and friendly resident cats!
We stayed in the Prestige Princess Lokelani room, which offered direct access to the lagoon. I particularly enjoyed lounging on the private deck for breakfast and the ease of swimming right from our room.
Pros:
Small, intimate resort without large families or partiers
Quiet, tranquil setting with stunning lagoon access for swimming
Beautiful gardens
Unique decor in each room, far from the cookie-cutter style of chain hotels
Cons:
A few mosquitoes
Needed a few more shade umbrellas
No pool - though the lagoon made up for it
No food offered other than breakfast
I found that Moorea retains much of its old-school island charm, unmarred by tourist shops and mega resorts. Here, a rental car is a must. A two-lane road circles the island, offering a scenic 1.5-hour drive. Although we didn't go around the entire island, we found ourselves enchanted by the northern side, where the beauty and accessible swimming spots abound. The south side, with its bigger waves and fewer restaurants, seemed more suited for surfers.
Things To Do
Snorkeling: Off the hotel, the snorkeling is nice enough for a casual look at the local sea life, but head to the north side of Temae Beach, about a 30-minute drive away, for a truly incredible experience. You can swim out yourself or take a tour. We opted for a night snorkeling tour with Moorea Dark Waters in the same spot, which I highly recommend—exploring the underwater world at night was thrilling and not scary at all. You could also do a regular day tour, but the snorkeling area is easy to find on your own. We snorkeled at the opposite end of the beach from the Sofitel, and I’m tempted to stay there if we return just for the snorkeling. Some travelers we met claimed that the snorkeling under the Sofitel’s overwater bungalows is the best they’ve ever experienced—and they were well-traveled in the Pacific!
Shark Snorkeling: We didn’t do this, but it was highly recommended by many other travellers and in my research.
SCUBA: There’s plenty of opportunities for both new and experienced divers on the island. Sadly, many of the reefs aren’t as colorful and lively as they once were, so keep that in mind.
Hiking: The Afareaitu Waterfalls trail is highly recommended, but we were honestly a bit too committed to relaxation to tackle it on this trip.
Restaurants
Moorea offers an impressive array of dining experiences, each promising a taste of the island’s fresh and vibrant culinary landscape. Most eateries maintain a relaxed, casual vibe, where even the "fine dining" spots see guests comfortably dressed in t-shirts and shorts. Seafood lovers will find themselves in paradise, with the island’s cuisine heavily focused on the freshest catches, particularly tuna. While the menus can feel a bit repetitive, with regional staples making frequent appearances, the overall quality and freshness of the food are consistently delightful, even for the most discerning palates.
Most of the top dining spots are about a 30-minute drive from the hotel along dark and winding roads, so be sure to watch how much you drink at dinner to make sure you get back safely. Along your journey, you’ll find numerous roadside stands offering freshly made fruit smoothies. And don’t forget to pick up some exquisite Tahitian vanilla to bring a piece of Moorea’s culinary magic back home with you - we picked up some vanilla paste and have added it to almost everything sweet since.
Snack Mahana RESA A cash-only, very casual lunch spot on the water that’s always crowded, but the food is delicious.
Coco Beach Everyone will tell you to go here, and while it’s nice, don’t fret if you can’t get a reservation—it’s not out-of-this-world. Accessible only by boat (they’ll pick you up), it’s located on a gorgeous turquoise stretch of water.
Tama Hau Opunohu's Bay This casual spot on a lagoon offers fresh seafood and burgers. No alcohol.
Restaurant Te Honu Iti If you catch the owner there, he’s a really sweet old guy with a unique chef’s history that he will gladly tell you about. The food was delicious, although the decor could use some updating. There’s a group of sharks that will swim up beneath the deck every night for the ultimate in dining entertainment.
Casa Vincenzo Moorea You will need a reservation. We tried without one and they were booked, but the pizzas looked yummy, plus it’s close to the hotel.
